The problem with the word "artisan"
"Artisan" is one of the most abused words in the food industry. It has been applied to mass-produced bread, factory-made cheese, and industrially churned gelato alike. The word conjures skill, care, and provenance — which is exactly why it is commercially valuable, and exactly why it is so frequently misappropriated.
In the context of gelato, "artisan" has a fairly specific technical meaning — even if that meaning is rarely enforced in marketing claims. Understanding what it actually means gives you a useful tool for evaluating what you are being offered and, more importantly, what you are tasting.
The four defining characteristics of artisan gelato
Made from whole ingredients, not pastes
Industrial gelato production typically begins with a "paste" — a pre-manufactured flavouring compound bought from a wholesale supplier. Pistachio paste, hazelnut paste, strawberry compound. These are convenient, consistent, and cost-effective. Artisan gelato starts from the ingredient itself: whole pistachios, whole hazelnuts, whole fruit. The process is more labour-intensive, the sourcing is more demanding, and the result is a different order of flavour.
Made fresh, daily
Artisan gelato is made each morning for consumption the same day. It is not frozen for storage, shipped across a distribution network, or held at -18°C until required. The production cycle is aligned with the service day: made today, eaten today, never carried over. This freshness is structural to the flavour and texture of the product.
Low overrun
"Overrun" refers to the amount of air incorporated into a frozen dessert during churning. Ice cream is typically churned to 50-100% overrun — meaning the finished product is up to half air by volume. Artisan gelato is churned to 20-35% overrun, producing a denser product with more flavour per mouthful and a texture that is smoother and more substantial.
Specific provenance
In artisan production, ingredients are not purchased anonymously. The pistachio comes from a named region. The hazelnut from a named grove or at least a named variety and origin. The milk from a named farm. This specificity is not marketing; it is the foundation of quality control. When you know exactly what you are using, you know exactly what you are tasting — and you know when something is not right.
How to tell if gelato is genuinely artisan
You cannot always tell from the marketing materials, because these have been colonised by the word "artisan" regardless of what the product actually is. But there are observable signals. Colour is one: genuinely artisan pistachio gelato is pale green, not vivid emerald, because it contains no added colouring. A naturally coloured pistachio gelato tells you the producer is at least committed to using the real ingredient. Vivid, uniform colouring across all flavours suggests paste bases.
Menu size is another signal. A gelateria offering fifty flavours is not making everything fresh daily — the logistics are impossible. A smaller menu, limited and changed seasonally, suggests a producer working within the genuine constraints of artisan production.
Provenance claims are the third signal. A producer who can name where their pistachios come from, or which farm supplies their milk, is a producer who cares about the ingredient chain. If asked, they should be able to tell you.
What artisan gelato tastes like
The most immediate difference between artisan and industrial gelato is flavour intensity and complexity. Industrial paste-based products are calibrated for broad palatability — sweet, recognisable, inoffensive. Artisan gelato made from a real ingredient is calibrated for that ingredient: it reflects the specific character of that pistachio or that hazelnut, on that day, from that harvest.
This means the flavour can be more intense, sometimes more surprising, and always more specific. The pistachio in a Bronte DOP gelato tastes like Bronte pistachios — not like the category of pistachio flavour in general. For someone accustomed to the industrial product, this can be a genuinely revelatory experience. For someone who already knows what real Italian gelato tastes like, it is simply a confirmation that the right thing is possible in London.
Frequently asked questions
What is artisan gelato?
Artisan gelato is made in small batches using whole, named ingredients — rather than industrial flavour pastes — and produced fresh daily for consumption the same day. It is the opposite of factory-produced gelato.
How is artisan gelato different from regular gelato?
Regular commercial gelato is often made from paste bases and stabiliser mixes. Artisan gelato starts from the raw ingredient — real pistachio, real hazelnut, real fruit — and builds upward from there.
Why does artisan gelato have a lower overrun?
Artisan gelato is churned slowly and incorporates less air than commercial ice cream or mass-produced gelato. This results in a denser, more flavour-intense product.
Is artisan gelato better for you than ice cream?
Artisan gelato typically has a lower fat content than ice cream and fewer additives. However, the primary reason to eat it is flavour, not nutrition.
Where can I buy artisan gelato in London?
Gelatone at 23 Rose Street, Covent Garden, is one of the few dedicated artisan gelaterias in London making everything from scratch daily.